Tile Buying Guide — How to Choose the Right Tile

Most tile-buying mistakes are made in the first five minutes, by choosing on appearance and working backwards. The order below reverses that, and it is the order a specifier uses: decide what the tile has to survive, then decide what it should look like.

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Six decisions in order

  1. Where is it going? Wall or floor, indoors or out, wet or dry. This eliminates most of the catalogue immediately — a wall tile cannot take floor traffic, and a non-porcelain tile cannot go outdoors at all.
  2. How much traffic? Domestic, commercial, or heavy commercial. This decides the body: GVT for homes, double charged for commercial, full body for heavy commercial and anywhere the wear is concentrated.
  3. Will it be wet? If yes, the slip rating becomes the governing specification and rules out every polished finish, regardless of how it looks.
  4. What size? Larger reads as more continuous and makes rooms look bigger, but needs a flatter substrate and a better setter. Smaller suits shower falls and complicated layouts.
  5. What should it look like? Only now. By this point the field has narrowed to tiles that will actually work, so choosing on appearance is safe.
  6. How much? Measured area plus ten per cent, fifteen for diagonal or herringbone layouts. Order it all at once, in one shade batch.

Reading a technical data sheet

FigureWhat it meansWhat to look for
Water absorptionHow porous the fired body isUnder 0.5% is porcelain. Above 3% is wall-only and never outdoors
Breaking strengthLoad the tile takes before fractureOver 1300 N for any floor
PEI ratingSurface abrasion resistance, I to VIII domestic, IV commercial, V heavy commercial
R ratingWet slip resistanceR9 dry interior, R10 kitchen and bathroom, R11 external and wet
Deep abrasionWear resistance of unglazed bodiesQuoted for full body; lower cubic mm is better
Frost resistanceSurvives freeze-thaw cyclingRequired for outdoors in any climate with frost
RectifiedGround to exact size after firingAllows 2 mm joints; essential for large format
Shade and calibreBatch codes on the cartonOrder a whole job in one shade and calibre

Calculating quantity without getting it wrong

Measure each area in square metres — length times width — and add them up. Do not subtract for small obstructions like a WC pedestal or a kitchen island; the tile you would have saved is smaller than the waste those obstructions create by breaking up full rows.

Add ten per cent for a straight layout. Every cut wastes the offcut unless the room happens to be an exact multiple of the tile, which it never is. For diagonal or herringbone layouts add fifteen per cent, because those patterns generate two cut pieces for every edge tile instead of one.

Then keep whatever is left over. This is the part people skip and later regret: a tile damaged in year three cannot be replaced invisibly, because the production batch is gone and the nearest equivalent will be a slightly different shade. A box in the garage is the only reliable repair.

One more quantity trap: order all areas at the same time even if they will be laid months apart. Two batches means two shades, and the difference shows exactly where two rooms meet.

Mistakes worth avoiding

  • Polished tiles in wet areas — the most common and most dangerous error. Showrooms are dry; bathrooms are not.
  • Small tiles in small rooms — the opposite of the received wisdom. More grout lines make a small room read as smaller, not larger.
  • Ordering short — a top-up order will not shade-match, and the difference will be visible.
  • Ceramic wall tile used on a floor — it will crack. Floor tiles can go on walls; the reverse is not true.
  • Ignoring the substrate — large format over an uneven screed gives lippage that no amount of good tiling can hide.
  • Contrasting grout by accident — grout colour changes a floor more than most people expect. Tone-matched grout makes a floor continuous; contrasting grout draws a grid.
  • Skipping movement joints — a large floor without them will eventually tent.

Frequently asked questions

What does the PEI rating mean?

It measures how well a glazed surface resists abrasion, on a scale from I to V. PEI III is enough for domestic floors, PEI IV for commercial, PEI V for heavy commercial and industrial. It applies to glazed tiles; full body tiles are rated on deep abrasion resistance instead, which is a more demanding test.

What slip rating do I need?

R9 for a dry interior floor, R10 for kitchens and bathrooms, R11 for external areas, wet rooms and poolsides, R12 for slopes and permanently wet surfaces. The rating is tested on a wet ramp, which is why a tile that grips well dry can still be unsafe in use.

How many extra tiles should I order?

Ten per cent above the measured area for a straight layout and fifteen for diagonal or herringbone. Keep the surplus for repairs — a matching tile will not be available once the batch is gone.

Can floor tiles be used on walls?

Yes, always. The reverse is not true: a wall-grade ceramic tile is not strong enough for floor traffic and will crack. When in doubt, specify the floor tile for both.

What is the difference between rectified and non-rectified tiles?

Rectified tiles are mechanically ground to an exact size after firing, so they can be laid with joints of 2 mm or less. Non-rectified tiles vary slightly and need a wider joint to absorb it. For large format, rectified is effectively essential.

Ask us what to specify

Describe the room, the traffic and the climate and we will tell you which range fits — and quote it if you want.

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